The Internet Personified: The Ultimate* Delhi guide** (part one)
* Obviously these are only my favourite places.
** specifically tailored for tourists.
Hello my chickens,
It's a muggy Independence Day in Delhi as I write this. A few days ago, I noticed a strange smell coming from my shower, but I put it down to cat pee. (I'm used to odors on the whole.) But when I noticed it again the next day, I sniffed my arm and YUCK, THE SMELL WAS ON ME. Turns out a nearby sewage pipe had leaked into our water supply. I KNOW. This was my face:

Followed by:

Anyway, so we had to have our tanks cleaned, which also sounds like I'm using code words for sex. "getting my tank cleaned... mmmm." So yay! Welcome back home, me!
Coming back to the subject line of this email, a dear friend is getting married and I offered to do a list of recommendations for her foreign guests. Four hours later, it was this six page thing, and I think it's very cool, so here, for the next time you have guests in town and need them to entertain themselves. (Because it's so long, it's going to be divided into three bits, so this bit is just historical sights.)
~Minna's Fab Delhi Guide~
Background: Delhi is basically a circle, divided into North, South, East and West. I'm focussing on South and Central Delhi, where all the action is, with one exception (see: Akshardham Temple). I'm also not going to go into Gurgaon or Noida, technically in other states, but part of the Delhi NCR. Old Delhi is mammoth and vast, and definitely worth seeing if you have the time. If you don't, there are enough historical sites around South Delhi too.
Getting around: The simplest and most convenient way of getting around Delhi is via cab: either Uber or the Indian model: Ola. You'll need an app to use this though. However, if you get someone else to call a cab for you, ask them to turn the payment option to “cash” so you can pay the driver yourself and it doesn't get debited out of someone else's account.
Metro connectivity throughout Delhi is pretty good, but there's a long gap between stations and your hotel/home which you'll have to do on foot or via auto rickshaw. People speak English at the ticket and information desks and everyone is very friendly, so don't be afraid to ask about your exact stops. I don't recommend you take a bus at all—these can be very crowded and hard to get in to, plus, if you're a woman, you might get groped if the rush is too intense. Best avoided.
Auto rickshaws are in most places too. Ask for them to use their meter, otherwise they'll charge you an arm and a leg to get even short distances. Be firm, and walk away if they refuse.
You can also hire a cab to stay with you for the whole day—8 hours maximum. For this, you'll need to check with your hotel for a good rate at the local cab stand. I'd recommend this if you have a whole day of sightseeing you want to get done.
Carry: For long trips, you should have a bottle or tube of mosquito repellent (I'd suggest the Indian made one Odomos, because all others seem too mild for the hard core Delhi mosquitos!) and a scarf to wear around your head if need be. Men, it's best to wear long pants rather than shorts, because many mosques/temples, won't let you enter with bare legs. Women, if you're spending the day out and about and not just in restaurants and bars, err on the side of modesty. (If you're only planning on eating or drinking out, in the more trendy areas, you can wear what you want.) Always carry or buy mineral water, and make sure the bottles are sealed when you buy them! Bisleri is a good brand of water to get.
Money: Most places take debit/credit cards of Mastercard or Visa. A few places take AmEx, but check first. There are ATMs almost everywhere, and you'll need cash for small purchases. Delhi can range from expensive (50 -80 euros for a night out with drinks and food) to very cheap (under two euros) so it really depends on where you go.
Historical sights:
(Entry fees vary for Indians and foreigners. Carry some sort of ID.)
South Central:
1) Humayun's Tomb: My personal favourite in this city of tombs. Humayun was a Mughal emperor, and his tomb is stunning, especially since it has been recently redone. You can get a guide on the grounds (make sure to get one recommended by the ticket booth and avoid touts) or download an audio guide before. Here's a link to the tomb: http://www.humayunstomb.com/Humayuns-Tomb-Access.html and one for the app you can get on your phone: http://captivatour.com/our-captivatours/new-delhi-travel-guide/humayuns-tomb-audio-guide/
2) Lodhi Gardens: Another must-see. A massive park filled with tombs, but just dotted here and there like part of the landscape. It's a great walk and a beautiful green space in the middle of the city. Free entry, and no guides, but stop off after at the Lodi Restaurant for a drink on the terrace. Close to Humayun's Tomb so you can do them both on the same day.
Old Delhi:
1) Red Fort: Has one of the best sound and light shows I've ever seen, written by late great Indian author Khushwant Singh. I'd time your visit so that you can see around the fort before and then end up at the English sound and light after. Closed on Mondays, but this changes, so double check before.
South Delhi:
1) Qutub Minar: This is a massive minaret with a gorgeous garden and has a twisted, complicated history. (Link: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Qutb_Minar) Lots of restaurants around here to eat and drink at after. I'd recommend Lavash by Saby, which is fusion Bengali/Armenian food with excellent cocktails. If you're not feeling experimental, try Olive, which has pretty good pizzas and pastas.
Religious sights:
No entry fee at most places, but you'll have to adhere to whatever the rules are such as covering your head etc.
Old Delhi:
Jama Masjid: A really old, really big mosque, worth seeing for the architecture alone, plus a look at the “old walled city” beyond. After you're done, hop into a passing cycle rickshaw and ask them to take you to Karim's for the best biryani and kebabs in the city. (Lots of foreigners eat here so their hygiene is top notch.)
South Central:
Nizamuddin Dargah: Right across from the Humayun's Tomb is a shrine to the Sufi saint Hazrat Nizamuddin from whom the whole neighbourhood takes its name. Go on a Thursday night if possible to see free live qawwals or Sufi singers do a night of devotional music. The food in and around the alleys is great (Ghalib's Kebab Corner is my favourite) but only do if you have a strong stomach.
South East:
Lotus Temple: Very pretty—this massive building is shaped like a lotus!--and part of the Bah'ai faith, this temple has won loads of architectural awards and is worth a wander around the grounds and to gape up at the structure.
East:
Akshardham Temple: The newest of this lot, it's like a Disneyland for Hinduism. Lots of exhibitions, an IMAX show, a boat ride, a musical fountain, you get the drift. There's also a cafe inside with vegetarian food options—I've never tried it, but it seems decent. Here's a link: http://akshardham.com/visitor-info/
Walking guides:
Depending on the weather, you might like to get up bright and early and do a walking tour. I'd recommend Delhi Heritage Walks (http://delhiheritagewalks.com/) for one of their customised tours. A newer option is Seek Sherpa, but like Uber, they only connect you with people who do the tours, so can't vouch for any walk in particular. (http://experiences.seeksherpa.com/). But a walk is always a great way to see some things and check out otherwise hidden parts of the city.
Museums:
Most museums are located around the India Gate area, which is also a great walk. This is Central Delhi and just a short distance from the Humayun's Tomb/Lodhi Gardens area.
National Museum: History of India through art and artefacts. There are loads of guided tours, and I recommend you take one since the museum can be overwhelming. The foreigner's ticket (9 euros) comes with an audio guide as well. Closed Mondays. http://www.nationalmuseumindia.gov.in/visiting.asp
National Gallery of Modern Art: Not quite as large as, say, the Louvre or other international art museums, but still a really good way to get acquainted with India's contemporary artists. They have free guided walks every day so check online for timings: http://ngmaindia.gov.in/plan-your-visit.asp
Rail Museum: Okay, I'm just putting this in because I love trains. A collection of engines and trains from all over India. They even have virtual reality tours inside and lots of engines you can just get inside. Plus a dinky toy train ride, if you're into that. http://nrmindia.com/
Look out for part two (the food & drink section) soon! And let me know if you'd add anything to this list. :)
Have a great week!
xx
m
Where am I? The Internet Personified! A mostly weekly collection of things I did/thought/read/saw that week.
Who are you? Meenakshi Reddy Madhavan, writer of internet words (and other things) author of six books (suppport me by buying a book!) and general city-potter-er.
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